Archive for the ‘Restoring the Swift’ Category

After a long delay (mostly due to renovations on my garage to make it a more usable shop for a race car), I finally started reassembling the Swift today.  The first step:  installing the belly pan that I had fabricated.

The process didn’t take as long as I thought it would.  After cleaning up and polishing the belly pan, I scuffed the area of the pan that would bond to the frame with a Scotchbrite pad.  I used 100 grit sandpaper to prep the bottom of the frame rails where the pan would attach.  After cleaning both surfaces with brake cleaner, I was ready to do the final assembly.

I used Hysol 2-part epoxy adhesive–the dispenser and mixing tip that I bought made the job simple.  I ran two beads down each frame rail, one on each side of the rivet holes.  Then I carefully lined the belly pan up with the holes in the frame, and started putting rivets in.  A few of the holes didn’t line up perfectly, so I had a drill on hand to make last-minute adjustments where needed.  Here’s what it looked like when I was ready to rivet:

Riveting was definitely the easiest part.  I used 3/16″ aluminum structural rivets, and with the help of the heavy-duty pneumatic riveter that I bought from Aircraft Tool Supply (around $90, a great deal), I pulled all of the rivets in 15 or 20 minutes.  Here’s the finished result:

The whole process took around 2 or 3 hours.  Before I move on to the next step, I’m going to build a rolling chassis stand for the frame–that way, I can move the car around the garage as needed to finish the garage renovations.


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I didn’t get much work done on the Swift today, but I did have a chance to cut the notches in the front of the belly pan for the skid block.  I also had to trim the front of the pan a bit to keep it flush with the front of the skid block.  Here’s what it looks like with the skid block in place (you can also see that the rivet holes have been countersunk).

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The next step in fabricating the belly pan is definitely the most tedious:  drilling and countersinking the rivet holes, all 150 or so of them.  I figured that I would go through a few drill bits in the process, so I bought 10 of them from McMaster Carr:  3/16″, high speed steel, in a shorter than standard length.  McMaster Carr also sells a variety of countersink bits, the one I bought was a 3/8″ diameter, 100 degrees, with six flutes.  I’m not sure that the number of flutes makes that much of a difference for countersinking rivet holes, but since six should give a slightly smoother finish than three, that’s the one I chose.

Unfortunately, the old belly pan was useless as a template for holes in the new one, for a few reasons.  First, it was pretty beat up, and I wasn’t sure I could get it to line up well enough for me to drill accurate holes.  Also, there were some places on the frame where the rivet holes had been so badly egg-shaped that I had to have them welded and re-drilled, so the old holes in those locations wouldn’t line up anyway.  And finally, the front 12″ or so of the old pan was a separate piece from the rest, making it even more difficult to line up.

To drill the holes in the new belly pan, I took some advice I found on Apexspeed.com and bought a strap duplicator from Aircraft Spruce.  The tool made the job so much easier–with the pan clamped in place on the frame, I located each hole in the frame with the pin on the bottom side of the strap duplicator, and then drilled the hole using the bushing on top as a guide.

I found that the drilling went more quickly when I started the hole through the bushing, and then finished drilling it after removing the strap duplicator.  When I was trying to drill all the way through the belly pan with the duplicator in place, aluminum from the pan was getting deposited on the inside of the bushing of the duplicator, which was heating everything up, slowing down the drilling, and probably wearing out the drill bits more quickly.  Of course, a drill press would have been ideal for a job like this, but I don’t have one.  Fortunately, the bubble level on my electric drill helped keep the holes straight.

Once I had a few holes drilled, I used old 3/16″ drill bits to keep the belly pan aligned (the clamps by themselves weren’t enough, since the vibration from drilling and the movement each time I lifted the pan to move the strap duplicator was causing the pan to move a bit).  Ideally, I would have used Cleco clamps for this job, but the 0.190″ thick aluminum added to the thickness of the frame material is thicker than the grip range for standard Clecos.  My drill bit method probably wasn’t ideal, but it worked relatively well.

Here is how the setup looked with the clamps I was using:

Overall, the process took about 4 hours for drilling and countersinking all of the holes.  Next step: finishing touches on the belly pan, including cutting notches out from the front to make room for the skid plate.  Yesterday, I ordered a box of 500 rivets from Hanson Rivet, and I have to decide which adhesive I’m going to use and buy some of that as well.  The bigger challenge is getting the garage warm enough for whatever adhesive I use to cure–it’s getting cold here in the Northeast, and I don’t have a heat source in the garage yet!

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Last weekend, I started fabricating the new belly pan for the Swift DB-1.  I had bought a 20″ x 80″ piece of 6061-T6 aluminum plate, .190″ thick, and the next step was to cut it to size.  Since the old belly pan had been damaged several times–a previous owner had repaired the front 8″ or so with a replacement piece of aluminum sheet–I decided not to use it as a template.  Instead, I just set the frame on top of the new aluminum plate and drew an outline with a permanent marker.

Cutting the material turned out to be a slow process, but not difficult at all.  I used a Skil jigsaw, and after experimenting with a few different blades, discovered that the rough cut metal blade worked the best.  After trying the smooth cut setting, I settled on the low scrolling setting, which worked best.  Clamping the aluminum plate to a piece of 3/4″ plywood helped to stop the aluminum from vibrating.  I should have used three or four clamps, but two worked well enough most of the time.

So that the saw blades wouldn’t overheat and break, I stopped after every few inches of cutting to let it cool down.  All told, the project took less than an hour, and I went through three blades for the saw (one of which broke).  The finish on the edges of the belly pan is a bit rough, but I’m going to file it before I start drilling holes for the rivets.  Here is the final product:

The total cost, including the aluminum and the blades for the saw, was under $300.  Next step: drilling and countersinking a LOT of rivet holes.

UPDATE:  Here is a dimensional drawing that I did for the belly pan when I thought I was going to have a sheetmetal shop cut it to size for me: Belly Pan

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After way too many months of sitting and collecting dust, the DB-1 is finally settled in to its new home!

As you can see, both the race car and the garage are works in progress.  When I bought the house in late May, the garage was unfinished, and I had to stuff it full of random junk that came with me in the move.  Some of the junk is now gone, and a lot of the parts for the car are in the attic–which gives me some room to move around.   I’ve also gotten most of the insulation up on the walls and about half the ceiling.  Drywall arrives in two weeks.  My goal is to get the drywall up by the end of October so the garage can be heated once the cold weather arrives.

At the same time as I’m finishing the garage, I’m going to have to start working on reassembling the Swift if I want it to be ready by spring.  I ordered a 80″ x 20″ sheet of aluminum for the belly pan (6061-T6, 0.187″ thick), it arrives in a couple of weeks as well.  The first steps will be to cut it to size, mark all of the holes for rivets using a transfer punch, and then drill the holes.  I’ll post pictures and progress reports when the work starts…

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For the past few months, the project of rebuilding my Swift DB-1 has ground to a halt.  Trying to get work done in my basement–because my garage is unheated and has a variety of other issues that have made it a challenging place to work on a race car–took me only so far.  And with spring coming, I really want to get back on track and start reassembling the car.  So…the project is moving to a new workspace:

A proper garage, with enough space for a Formula Ford and everything that goes along with it, plus a concrete floor in excellent condition.  All things that I didn’t have until now.

Not that I haven’t gotten anything accomplished in the last few months.  Most of the parts that needed to be rebuilt in some way or another are now done, and I’ll post some details soon about what I had done.  For now, though, I’m looking forward to moving the car to its new home in a couple of months.

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According to the buzz on Apexspeed.com, Ford Motorsports showed a mock-up of a replacement block for Kent engines at the Performance Racing Industry show last month.  The first time I heard that Ford might be making replacement blocks was earlier last year, when the SCCA was condsidering the Honda Fit engine proposal.  It’s good to see that Ford is continuing with the idea even though the Fit proposal was approved and the class is now officially known as Formula F.

I haven’t been able to find any details about the block on the Ford Motorsports website, but it’s supposedly going to be available this summer.  If so, that might change my engine plans significantly.  My engine’s block and crankshaft have a lot of time on them, and I’m concerned that the block may be cracked.  Yes, a hairline crack can be repaired, but if new blocks were available, I’d start fresh with a new block and crankshaft, and re-use most of the rest of the parts that are in my current engine.

At the moment, in order to cut the cost of rebuilding my Swift, I’m thinking about rebuilding the engine myself–it’s not a completely crazy idea, I’ve rebuilt engines before and spent some time working for a professional racing engine builder.  But I haven’t opened up an engine in over a decade and I’d have to buy a lot of the gauges and other specialized tools that are necessary for the job.  For the moment, I’m not making any decisions, but I’ll be watching the news from Ford Motorsport over the next few months as the time to start the rebuild gets closer.

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